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Ask a Picky Guy: Stain-Hiding Duds for Dads
Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Michael Zhao, Retailers
Whether he’s overhauling theMenswear Hall of Fame, trying on every sweater at J.Crew,orprofiling the Zoomer tailor of the momentforNew York’sinaugural “Men’s Style” issue, senior writer Michael Zhao has quickly become the Strategist’s residentpicky guy. He’s here to answer your questions about men’s style, highly specific appliance hunts, impossible gifting assignments, and whatever else you need a picky guy’s take on. Send your questions topickyguy@nymag.com.
As a new father myself who’s already running into this issue, I have limited experience to offer and, frankly, could use advice as well. So I polled some of the most stylish dads I know for their sage counsel
“I think you need to embrace the reality that no matter what you wear, your toddler will find a way to visibly stain it,” said Michael B. Dougherty of Mensweird. “That being said, I find lighter neutrals hide snot and grease better than dark colors. Or just wear camo and let people guess if the pattern is flecktarn or Go-Gurt.”
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Carhartt WIP Double-Knee Canvas Pant
$198
Dougherty’s preferred brand of camo pants
$198
at Huckberry
$208
at Carhartt WIP
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Gap Baggy Cargo Pants
$35$90now
61% off
A cheaper option with cargo pockets
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at Gap
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L.L.Bean Men’s Bean’s Moleskin Shirt – Allspice Camo
$55$90now
39% off
Made from cozy moleskin (and currently on sale)
Chris Gentile, the owner and head designer of Pilgrim Surf + Supply, recommended dark earth tones for everything except spit-up milk — which might be fine for a 2-year-old. But he added that patterns are more effective than any specific color in hiding stains: “Mid-tone check, plaid, stripes, and patterns are by far the best at hiding stains. Think houndstooth chef pants.”
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NN.07 Deon – Casual Flannel Shirt
$185
A perfectly soft micro-plaid flannel for the fall in burgundy to match the new iPhone
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at NN.07
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Banana Republic Standard-Fit Lightweight Corduroy Shirt
$98
Banana Republic offers bolder patterns at better prices than any other mall brand
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at Banana Republic
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TopTie Men’s Baggy Chef Pants – Houndstooth
$23
Gardenheir co-founder Alan Calpe also likes these for gardening
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at Amazon
From left:NN.07 Deon flannel. Photo: Michael ZhaoBanana Republic corduroy shirt. Photo: Michael Zhao
From top:NN.07 Deon flannel. Photo: Michael ZhaoBanana Republic corduroy shirt. Photo: Michael Zhao
“Navy served me well before, during, and after the toddler phase,” said restaurateur and shirting designer Brooks Reitz. “But that’s probably just because that’s what I’ve always loved.” Founder and designer of 18 East Antonio Ciongoli also recommended staying the course: “White and own it. I never switched up my fits at all with three kids.”
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E.M. Reitz Scout’s Honor Oxford Shirt
$480
Reitz’s ideal navy oxford, co-designed with his wife
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at E.M. Reitz
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18 East L/S Moore Heavyweight Tee
$68
Ciongoli’s long-sleeved white T-shirt. It’s thicker than many sweatshirts
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at Eighteen East
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COS 3-Pack Cotton Crew-Neck T-Shirts
$89
A three-pack of modern-fitting crew-neck tees in white, black, and heather gray
I’ll add that wool fabrics resist stains exceptionally well because the residual lanolin that coats the fibers prevents liquids from soaking in. (We’ve been loving our new CB2 rug for this reason.) Pendleton flannels (plentiful and affordable on eBay) are a classic, but there are thinner, less hot wool fabrics as well
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Pilgrim Vincent Wool Ombré Shirt
$295
This extra-breathable oversize shirt has a slubby texture that boosts its stain resistance
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at Pilgrim Surf + Supply
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Buck Mason Sportsman Wool Camp Shirt
$168
Made from a thin cotton-wool blend that feels as dry, smooth, and cool as vintage rayon
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at Buck Mason
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Outlier Awoolyflannel Boxford
$180
A wool-poly-blend flannel that’s less scratchy than a Pendleton
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at Outlier
Photo: Michael Zhao
Patagonia boyfriend is definitely a type — and one that’s hard to grow out of, for good reason. The brand’s decadeslong commitment to high-quality, relatively sustainable materials and durable construction is enough for many to look past its often unflattering cuts. Its clothes may not be the most fashion-forward, but the fact that its pieces pair easily in any combination appeals to guys who see getting dressed as a chore rather than an opportunity for self-expression. Here are a few other brands and lines doing something similar that should integrate easily with his existing wardrobe.
Outerknown was started by pro surfer Kelly Slater, but the quality of its clothes transcends its celebrity-founder origins. It began 11 years ago with the Blanket Shirt, an elevated overshirt take on the surfer-beloved blanket ponchos — colloquially known as “drug rugs.” Since then, its offerings have expanded into every clothing category a boyfriend could ever need, plus a decent women’s line. Like Patagonia, it prioritizes sustainable materials and responsible factories wherever possible.
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Outerknown Blanket Shirt – Alpine Skyline Strip
$168
The shirt that started it all
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at Outerknown
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Outerknown Beachcomber Relaxed Jean – Vintage Blue
$168
Unisex dad jeans with a surf-inspired vintage fade
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at Outerknown
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Outerknown Woolaroo Quarter-Zip
$298
Plastic-free fleece made from recycled wool. I’ve owned and loved the jacket for a year now
Gramicci is as deeply enmeshed with climbing culture as Patagonia. It started in the ’80s with the original G-Pant, which combined the gusseted crotch and pull-on design of karate pants with hard-wearing cotton canvas construction to create tough, easy-wearing, crag-ready pants. It’s expanded its line of Japanese-streetwear-inspired tops and jackets in recent years
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Gramicci Pant
$100
The original cotton canvas climbing pants
$100
at REI
$100
at Huckberry
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Gramicci Mohair Splatter Cardigan
$138
A machine-washable mohair sweater with a relaxed fit
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at Huckberry
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Gramicci Piled Flannel Shirt
$140
Prewashed for extra softness
Like Arc’teryx’s Veilance, Red Box is the North Face’s more fashion-forward sub-label. However, unlike Veilance, it’s not significantly more expensive than the main brand’s collections. The silhouettes are definitely on the trendier side, so I’m not sure he’ll go for it, but it’s worth considering
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The North Face Red Box British Millerain ’76 Mountain Parka
$450
A plastic-free, rain-resistant army jacket made from British-milled waxed cotton
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at The North Face
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The North Face Red Box Unisex Rugby Shirt
$130
Hefty rugby in an alluring purple-tinted charcoal
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at The North Face
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The North Face Red Box Packable Wind Pants
$180
Weatherproof and ultralight
Finally, maybe it’s okay if he sticks with Patagonia. As I noted in September’s testing report, the brand’s latest collections are increasingly fashionable, with more logoless designs offered in more contemporary cuts. It hasn’t spun out a sub-label (and I doubt it ever will), but there are plenty of great options if you know where to look
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Patagonia Nano-Air Insulated Bomber Jacket
$259
A logoless bomber made from stretchy, breathable Nano-Air material
$259
at REI
$259
at Patagonia
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Patagonia Men’s Point Reyes Canvas GI Pants
$135
A perfect pair of organic-cotton pull-on climbing pants I’ve been loving
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at Patagonia
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Patagonia Recycled Wool-Blend Cable-Knit Crewneck Sweater
$209
An Aran-inspired cable-knit fisherman’s sweater made from recycled wool and nylon
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at Patagonia
Patagonia clothes, Vibae Roma mules.
Photo: Michael Zhao
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Sabah Akşam – Kahve Suede
$250
Is it a dressier slipper or a more casual loafer? Yes. Runs narrow. I sized up from a 9 to a 10
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at Sabah
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Blundstone Men’s Heritage #157
$395
Finally a resolable Blundstone. Same shape and fit with a dressier sole
$395
at Nordstrom
$395
at Blundstone
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G.H.Bass x Metalwood Studio Sportocasin
$275
An archival golf shoe that reminds me of old-timey mail-carrier oxfords
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at G.H. Bass & Co.
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Village PM 1PM MID
$145
French skate shoes inspired by vintage climbing shoes
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at Pilgrim Surf + Supply
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Scarpa Mojito Wrap
$169
A street-specific version of one of the original approach shoes
$169
at Amazon
$169
at Zappos
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Veja x Baserange Jitsu Nolyn
$220
Stylish barefoot sneakers in good colors from an unexpected source
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at Veja
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Paracia Non-Safety Slip-on Waxed Suede Deep Brown
$440
Spanish-made Jungle Mocs with a clownish silhouette
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at Paracia
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Dr. Martens Aurix Satin-Finish Leather Mules
$180
An archival reissue slip-on that’s perfectly on trend
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at Dr. Martens
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Merrell Men’s Wrapt Loafer
$135
I wouldn’t wear these, but I’m glad they exist
Like many men who got their style advice online in the mid-2010s, I was enamored with the idea that a pair of welted boots could be bought once and resoled for life. In practice, the ones I bought for around $300 ($440 in today’s dollars!) looked pretty shabby after a year of regular wear — and not in the patinated style I was hoping for. I have had better success with dress shoes, loafers, and derbies in the years since but had given up on the promise of a buy-it-for-life boot until I visited the new Viberg store in Nolita.
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Viberg Navvy Boot
$1,380
$1,380
Buy at Viberg
Buy
After hearing about my experience with previous boots of this style, the clerk pulled several parts from deconstructed Viberg shoes, along with some from other well-known brands for comparison. Viberg’s leather insoles were over twice as thick as the next thickest. The welt flanges were channeled directly into the leather rather than sewn or glued on — a technique that requires antiquated machinery and custom-milled parts to repair. The uppers are stretched drum-tight over the lasts by hand and stitched down all the way around. This laborious process means the brand can produce no more than 10,000 pairs each year, which is why new drops tend to sell out within weeks of release.
From left:Viberg’s insoles (bottom two) are made entirely of channeled leather and stitched all the way around with no cloth, cork, or wood reinforcements.Viberg’s insole (left) is more than twice as thick as the Alden’s. Photo: Michael Zhao
From top:Viberg’s insoles (bottom two) are made entirely of channeled leather and stitched all the way around with no cloth, cork, or wood reinforcem…From top:Viberg’s insoles (bottom two) are made entirely of channeled leather and stitched all the way around with no cloth, cork, or wood reinforcements.Viberg’s insole (left) is more than twice as thick as the Alden’s. Photo: Michael Zhao
I worried that such a sturdy-feeling boot would have a burdensome break-in period, but it was actually quite comfortable from the first wear (they fit true to size, and Viberg offers different lasts for different foot shapes). After six months and hundreds of miles, and despite my lackadaisical shoe-tree use, the leather is only barely beginning to crease. At $1,380 a pair, they cost more than any boot I’ve come across that isn’t from a luxury fashion house. But unlike similar designs from other brands (many of which aren’t much cheaper), Viberg’s boots could actually last you a lifetime.
Viberg Navvy boots, Proper Cloth tweed trousers.
Photo: Michael Zhao
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Todd Snyder Harrington Walnut Valet Chair by Todd Snyder
$499
$499
Buy at CB2
Buy
My colleague Erin Schwartz recently gave some excellent advice on how to banish the clothes chair from your home once and for all. As much as I’d love to do that, I don’t think I have the fortitude and discipline to make it stick. Instead, I opted to replace the Cesca chair with a busted wicker seat that had been languishing beside my dresser with a piece of furniture that was actually designed to be saddled with clothing: a valet.
CB2 Harrington chair, Buck Mason jacket.
Photo: Michael Zhao
The Harrington chair comes from Todd Snyder’s recent collaboration with CB2 and is actually meant for holding clothes. Unlike the tall-back versions commonly found in estate sales, this modern style made from gorgeously sculpted solid hardwood is the same size as a regular dining chair, so it can be called on for dinner parties if needed. It’s perfectly sized for hanging shirts and jackets that aren’t ready for the laundry but don’t need to go back in the closet. I also use it to lay out an outfit when I need to try different shirt-jacket-tie combinations before committing. The downside to this compact, dining-friendly design is that it has no pants hanger, and even if it did, it would be too short. But it’s the right size for most men’s needs most of the time.
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Ask a Picky Guy: Stain-Hiding Duds for Dads
