AW25 buying guide: Functional apparel and accessories in an age of extremes

From the weather to politics: we live in an age of extremes. This is reflected in fashion, where functional apparel is becoming increasingly important

The gorpcore trend, once popular with outdoor athletes, hikers, and campers (“gorp” is an acronym for “good old raisins and peanuts”, a common trail mix snack), continues to evolve for AW25. People want to be protected not only in nature but also in everyday life

For AW25, we see a growing focus on functional apparel interwoven into traditional fashion segments such as formal (for the office) and urban (for leisure)

Apparel for unpredictable weather

What happens in the world is reflected in fashion. More volatile weather has a major influence on brand collections, says trend forecaster Edwin van den Hoek. Brands like Stone Island, Arc’teryx, C.P. Company, and Rains utilise coatings such as DWR (Durable Water Repellent), a spray or wash treatment applied to the exterior of garments to enhance water resistance

Womenswear brand Hyke responds to increasingly unpredictable weather by designing collections with removable and adjustable components, making the clothing suitable for various weather conditions

Apparel brands and manufacturers are also responding to consumer demand for protection against the sun’s UV radiation. Brands like Lululemon, Decathlon, Uniqlo, and French luxury brand Coperni are marketing clothing with UV-protective coatings

Lightweight fabrics

Coperni is known for its apparel and accessories that utilise innovative fabrics. These fabrics offer protection against UV radiation and have properties such as antibacterial and anti-wrinkle benefits

Lightweight fabrics that provide warmth are also gaining traction for AW25, shares Van den Hoek. Namely: wool (blends), fleece, thermal materials, and lightweight nylons. These can be found in the FW25 collection of the Italian brand Msgm

British brand J.l-a.l showcased a menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week for AW25 that demonstrates the maturation of the gorpcore trend: a refined blend of lightweight functional apparel for both the office and outdoors

Fashion in an information society

The impact of digital technology on our society also influences fashion, emphasises Van den Hoek. In smart cities, such as London and Amsterdam, where technology is integrated into daily life, the trend of “dressing for anonymity,” or dressing for the need for privacy, is growing. This phenomenon, mentioned by Van den Hoek in a previous trend forecast, is a direct response to the information society [a society where information, via technology such as the internet and computers, plays a crucial role, ed.].

London brands like Vollebak are responding to this development with innovative garments like the “Shielding Suit.” This jacket not only offers protection against extreme weather conditions but also has a technical outer layer with silver particles that blocks Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and satellite signals. Additionally, the outer layer blocks tracking and can prevent detection by infrared cameras

The brand Ohmni is also responding. Their “data protection dump bag” is a bag that, thanks to a built-in Faraday cage compartment, blocks all Wi-Fi and data connections. This allows users to protect themselves against digital threats such as tracking and hacking

Furthermore, the Japanese brand Anrealage showcases how technology and fashion go hand in hand in its AW25 collection in Paris. The “Screen” collection utilises LED screens in the clothing, highlighting the possibilities of technology in fashion

Comical forms of self-expression

According to Van den Hoek, politics are also becoming more extreme. “In America, new, strict gender rules apply: you are either male or female – anything in between is not accepted,” Van den Hoek gives as an example. Fashion brands such as Balenciaga, Avavav, and Duran Lantink are responding to this social development by offering new, often comical, expressions of self-expression

Fashion as necessity

The AW25 collections reflect technological advancements and the changing social and climatic conditions. Fashion thus becomes more than just a statement but also a means of survival in an increasingly extreme world