Collagen drops by 1% a year after 25: What science says about this anti-ageing ingredient

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What are copper peptides (Photo: Magnific)

Family medicine physician Dr Daniel Ghyiam recently shed light on what begins to change in our skin after our mid-20s and why copper peptides have become one of skincare’s most talked-about ingredients. Speaking on the Live + Well podcast, he said, “Now after mid-twenties, we’re still losing 1% of collagen every year.”

Addressing the growing buzz around copper peptides, he added, “So you’re hearing about copper peptides? What science is there to support collagen production, wound healing, skin health, and is this more marketing? No, that one has a lot of science behind it. It helps with collagen and elastin production. You know, it helps to protect the skin. There’s some hair growth. Topically? Topically.”

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine

While collagen loss is a natural part of ageing, does everyone need to start using collagen-boosting products in their 20s? And do copper peptides really live up to the hype? Dr Vishalakshi Vishwanath, Consultant Dermatologist, KIMS Hospitals, Thane, explains

What are the earliest signs of collagen loss?

According to Dr Vishwanath, collagen production gradually starts slowing down from the mid-20s, although the changes are subtle initially

“From our mid-20s onwards, the body’s ability to produce collagen begins to decline, and although the change at first is rather slight, the skin usually shows signs of it early on,” she says

Some of the earliest signs include:

* Fine lines around the eyes that persist even after adequate sleep* Reduced skin firmness* Slower fading of acne scars* Loss of the skin’s natural plumpness* Skin feeling thinner or less elastic

However, age isn’t the only factor

“Factors such as overexposure to the sun, smoking, poor sleep and chronic stress can accelerate collagen breakdown, making these changes appear much earlier,” Dr Vishwanath explains

What exactly are copper peptides?

Copper peptides are often marketed as anti-ageing superheroes, but they have genuine scientific backing, says Dr Vishwanath

“Copper peptides consist of small fragments of protein attached to copper ions. They function as signalling molecules that aid in skin repair and may promote the production of collagen and elastin,” she explains

These compounds work by stimulating fibroblasts—the skin cells responsible for producing collagen and supporting tissue repair

Do copper peptides really work?

According to Dr Vishwanath, research suggests that copper peptides can improve several aspects of skin health when used consistently

“They can help improve skin texture, firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines over time, particularly when used consistently and over a long period,” she says

This is one reason they are commonly included inanti-ageing serums and eye creams

Beyond collagen production, copper peptides may also:

* Support wound healing* Help protect skin cells from UV-induced damage* Improve overall skin repair

As for hair growth, the evidence is encouraging but still evolving

“Early studies suggest they may help create a healthier scalp environment and support hair follicles, although the evidence in this area is still limited,” Dr Vishwanath notes

She cautions that while copper peptides are beneficial ingredients, “they should not be viewed as miracle cures.”

Should you start using copper peptides in your mid-20s?

Dr Vishwanath believes prevention is often better than trying to reverse visible signs of ageing later

“For those in their mid-20s, prevention is generally more effective than correction. Copper peptides may be used provided that the skin barrier is healthy, but they should supplement—not replace—a basic skincare routine,” she says

She recommends building a strong skincare foundation first, consisting of:

* A broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning
* A gentle cleanser
* A moisturiser suited to your skin type
* A nighttime retinoid, if tolerated

Copper peptides can then be added once daily, preferably in the evening, she adds

DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine. 

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